Quick triage & tools

  • Scan first: read codes (all modules if you can) + live data that matches the symptom.
  • Power basics: battery voltage (resting + while cranking) and quick fuse checks before deep dives.
  • Have ready: basic scan tool, multimeter, and a way to confirm the symptom (road test / idle test).

Tip: if a step says “check wiring”, use Wiring diagrams basics → and Voltage drop testing →

What you need (minimal)

  • Basic scan tool that can read codes + live data (RPM, coolant temp, fuel trims if it starts).
  • Multimeter (battery voltage + simple checks).
  • (Optional) Spark tester / spare plug, fuel pressure gauge, noid light.

Related deep-dive: Crank / No‑Start Triage →

Decision flow

  1. Confirm it truly cranks (starter turns engine at normal speed).
    If it’s slow or clicks: treat as a no‑crank power/ground/starter issue first.
  2. Battery voltage while cranking
    • < 9.6V while cranking → battery weak, high resistance, or starter drawing too much.
    • 9.6–10.5V+ → proceed.
  3. Scan for codes + check live data RPM while cranking
    • RPM stays at 0 → ECU isn’t seeing crank signal (CKP sensor, wiring, gap/trigger wheel, power/ground). Start here.
    • RPM shows ~150–300 → crank signal likely present. Continue.
  4. Immobiliser / key authorisation
    • Any security light flashing / “immobiliser active” message?
    • Codes like P0513 / B-codes / U-codes about key/cluster/ECU comms?
    If immobiliser is active, you can crank forever with no start. Try spare key, check battery in fob (if applicable), scan body/immobiliser modules if possible.
  5. Fuel delivery: do you have fuel pressure?
    • No pressure / no pump prime → check fuses/relay, pump power/ground, inertia switch (some cars), tank connector.
    • Pressure low → filter restriction, weak pump, low voltage at pump, regulator issue, leak-back.
    • Pressure OK → proceed to injection + spark.
  6. Injection command
    If you have pressure but no start, confirm injectors are being commanded (noid light / scan tool pulse width). No command can be immobiliser, missing cam signal, ECU power/ground, or safety cut.
  7. Spark / ignition
    • No spark → check ignition power feeds, crank/cam sync, coil driver, ECU grounds, relevant fuses.
    • Spark present → move to air + compression + timing.
  8. Air / throttle / massive restriction
    Ensure intake isn’t blocked, throttle plate isn’t stuck closed, and there isn’t a catastrophic restriction (collapsed intake pipe, severe exhaust blockage). If you suspect exhaust restriction, see: P0420 principles.
  9. Compression + mechanical timing plausibility
    • Very low/uneven compression → mechanical issue (timing belt/chain slip, washed cylinders, valve damage).
    • Compression OK but still no start → look harder at timing correlation and sensor plausibility.
  10. When it finally starts: capture the story
    Save freeze-frame, note whether it only starts with throttle, only cold/hot, after sitting, etc. That pattern usually narrows the root cause.

Print / save checklist

Tick these off as you work. If you need to hand this to a mechanic, print it as a short job card.

  • Freeze-frame captured / conditions noted
  • Battery voltage checked (resting + cranking)
  • Basic visual checks (hoses, connectors, grounds, fuses)
  • One test at a time (don’t change multiple variables)
  • Confirm fix by reproducing the original condition

What to do next

Use the links below to deepen the test you’re about to perform, cross-check related codes, or jump to a faster symptom-led flow.